December, 2009

Aurora

Thursday, December 31st, 2009

December 11, 2009
Oaxaca

I haven’t talked about Aurora yet. The easiest way to describe her is that she sparkles. From the inside, she just emanates this light that draws you in and lets you know you are in the presence of someone really awesome. I want to be her when I grow up. Seriously, Aurora is the type of lady I have always wanted to be — always happy, always pleasant, upbeat, with a wonderful sense of humor and old-school grace that comes from a combination of good manners and just plain grace. Plus she’s just flat-out gorgeous.

Today Aurora has decided to leave work in the morning and give me a little tour, and I am delighted. I enjoy her company immensely, her Spanish is easy for me to understand, and she’s just uplifting to be around. Even though she is originally from Mexico City, she’s lived here 20+ years with Ruben and knows Oaxaca well.

Today is a special day: The Virgin of Guadalupe is the patroness of Mexico, and tomorrow is the Fiesta. It is a BIG DEAL for Mexicans.

I ride into “town” to meet her at the blood bank. (note Ruben’s little “City Bike” parked out front…

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1536
One of the local customs is to dress up the children like campesinos, and bring them to the church to be blessed. Aurora has told me about this, and I’d like to see for myself.

I see my first decorated child on their way to church

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1352

This is big business for entrepreneurs, and next to the church are many, many stalls where, for $150 Pesos, you can have your child photographed in your choice of scenes–some even including live burros!

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1353

A young girl taking her reluctant goats to a nativity scene

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1354

The church where the wee ones are blessed

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1355

On a cement burro

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1357

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1359

I am shy, and do not want to be a gringa sticking my camera in people’s faces. Aurora explains also that many people are scared that pictures will be taken of their children, and then they will be kidnapped and sold. I do not want to scare people.

Aurora steps in and asks some mothers if I can take pictures

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1361

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1362

These kids are just darling with their painted mustaches and beards

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1371

Some are not so happy

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1377

The girls get dressed up, too

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1380

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1383

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1396

Sometimes the burros cooperate

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1386

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1387

And sometimes the little boys do not.

This little guy was priceless

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1390

<>

We walked through a small market where they sold local drinks

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1397

And to a store Aurora knows the owner, where they make more “modern” handcrafts

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1404

I fell in love with the Katrinas

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1405

Too bad I have no room to carry anything.

<>

Next she took me to the Camino Real Hotel

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1410

all decorated for the holiday.

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1411

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1412

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1413

The hotel has had many past lives–monastery, jail, municipal offices.

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1417

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1418

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1420

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1421

<>

Next stop, an outdoor market where they sold more “modern” traditional clothing

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1422

and traditional Oaxacan carvings

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1423

Then it’s time to go back to the house for la comida and SIESTA!!!

Examiner.com Article: MotoAdventureGal update: Reaction to a woman riding solo

Thursday, December 31st, 2009

Ken’s Third article on my ride is up.

http://www.examiner.com/examiner/x-378-Motorcycle-Examiner~y2009m12d22-MotoAdventureGal-update-Reaction-to-a-woman-riding-solo

Way to go Mefo

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009

MEFO Tires

Remember I said the road changed when I entered the state of Oaxaca? Gone was the smooth pavement of the northern provinces. The asphault in Oaxaca contains a mixture of rough gravel

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1215

and is really rough on tires

I chose the Mefo Explorers (sold exclusively by Twisted Throttle) because they have a reputation as being really durable, long lasting tires. On a 30,000 mile trip (or any trip!!!) I would rather change my tires every 8,000-10,000 miles instead of every 3-5,000 miles, because I do it myself.

And I was really happy to have them on the road to Batopilas–their grip on the gravel and mixed road curfaces was excellent, and I never worried about anything.

They are still going really strongly–I already have almost 4,000 on these tires, and they are in great shape despite the awful road surfaces.

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1316

Lets see how far I get…

Oaxaca by Night

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009

December 9, 2009

After some nice chicken soup and a siesta, Rubén and Aurora had to go back to work. They run a blood bank in Oaxaca, and work long hours. They offered to give me a ride into town, and I could walk around a few hours, and they would pick me up again later.

Done!

I was feeling a little better.

It’s a lot easier to be a tourist on foot than always having to care for the moto.

A walking tour of Oaxaca:

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1279

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1283

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1285

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1286

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1287

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1290

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1295

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1299

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1300

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1303

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1304

Dancing in the Zocalo

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1305

Pizza Delivery Central

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1309

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1312

Twitter Updates for 2009-12-30

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009
  • I'm "stuck" in Antigua Guatemala…in a good way. I found a super comfy hotel, made a new friend, a type of soul mate if such things exist #
  • I've been invited to attend a Mayan celebration tomorrow morning…it is SUCH a privilege. Must be why I've felt compelled to stay here. #

Chicken Soup for the Gringa

Tuesday, December 29th, 2009

December 9, 2009
Acatlán – Oaxaca, Mexico
no stats recorded

I awoke to an ant infestation. Ants *everywhere*. And I had no food in my room. Yet I had ants in my helmet, jacket, Trax bag liner (that I use as my luggage carrying it in and out of the hotels every night). Little tiny ants, not fire ants, but little tiny ones that were red and scarcely larger than a poppy seed. I’d thrown my gear down on the other bed (which I often do when I move into a hotel room), and for some reason the ants really really liked that bed, and my stuff in particular. What particularly horrified me was the fact that my helmet was c-r-a-w-l-i-n-g with them.

I was so upset, I walked down to the front desk in my underwear, carrying my helmet, and told the poor woman at the front desk. I was nice, but firm, and asked he what she was going to do about it. She shrugged. I stayed there, just stood there, at the front desk picking ants out of my helmet. I didn’t know what else to do. I was absolutely horrified that I’d have to put that thing on soon.

The front desk lady offered to let me change rooms (I was leaving–what good would THAT do me?), and finally she offered to fumigate my stuff. I did not want them fumigating my stuff–I really just wanted the ants to disappear. I diid not want to poison myself in teh process of de-anting my gear.

I Hmf’ed back up to my room…it really wasn’t HER fault, and really, if I thought about it, I was really lucky that the ants decided to inhabit the other bed instead of the one I was sleeping in.

I shook everything out as best as I could, hung everything up on the railings OUTSIDE my room, and sat at an outdoor table catching up n my journal while trying to calm down. I choked down some Maria (digestive) crackers which seemed to be the only things my stomach would tolerate these days.

I hadn’t eaten dinner the night before, just some crackers and a yogurt, and my tummy was upset. Come to think of it, my tummy was a little upset all day yesterday, and my last meal was breakfast yesterday. So I kept journaling, trying not to think of the ants, and going back and forth to the bathroom.

Voni (Glaves from Texas) had put me in touch with her BMW friend Rubén, and I was supposed to call Ruben that morning at 10:00, so I was also waiting to leave until then.

Stomach finally emptied, gear de-anted as best I could, I packed up the bike and went looking for a telephone call center. I called Rubén, who speaks excellent Engllish, and we agreed to meet on the road near some town that started with an “N”. he asked me how the trip wa going, adn not mentioning the ants, told him I wasn’t feeling so well, and had a growing list of mechanical issues on the bike. At the end of the conversation he told me about his family, and asked me if I was prepared to be pampered.

I hung up and cried.

Oof, I’d been on the road for nearly 6 weeks, two weeks in Mexico where everything was wonderful, yet always slightly uncomfortable. It seemed I was learning everything the hard way, everything was just slightly not-quite-understood, just slightly difficult, I’d been infested by bedbugs (Angangueo), now was infested with ants, I’d been feeling not-so-great for 5-6 days now, I was always a little chilled, my bike was acting up, and I just cried.

Yeah, some tough chick I am. And I cried more.

<>

Luckily, I got distracted by a Mad-Max-alike leaving town.

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1207

They even had Aussie plates!

When I passed them it turned out to be a middle aged couple–we mutually waved and I sped forward.

It was easy to get out of town this time around, and the road was a nice one.

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1213

I got distracted by the great scenery, and I was happy to be meeting up with a friendly someone, who happened to speak quite good English.

I entered the state of Oaxaca

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1214

and the road surface changed dramatically.

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1215

And the countryside spectacular

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1216

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1217

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1218

Had some fun passing this fella (doble-remolque= almost 75 feet of get-on-the-gas-and-hope-for-the-best)

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1227

More mountain roads and, and, what’s this?

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1231

Closer?

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1232

They’re everywhere!

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1233

I love them!

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1234

I rode for a couple of hours, and then my gnawing ache in my belly had me pulling off the road. I hooked a left into Tamazulapan, and once again managed to somehow end up riding into the middle of the market.

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1235

Paddled the bike backwards, rode around the block, moved a coupla cones on the town green, and parked (then replaced teh cones in FRONT of my moto :-) .

I walked to the large market.

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1236

I really wanted something like soome chicken soup, but I was in the land of burritos, gorditas and fruit.

So I got a jugo

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1239

walked around a bit

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1238

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1240

And bought this disgusting thing to eat

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1242

At the time it seemed like a good idea, plus it was PINK, so I had to try it, but it was nassssssty and my stomach revolted.

I gave the pink thing to a passing pooch and walked to the church

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1243

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1244

Templo de Santa Maria de la Natividad

YIKES!

I was really late to meet Rubén.

But somehow, just after I started riding again, I passed a BMW and we waved at each other. It was Rubén.

<>

I almost cried again.

<>

Rubén had ridden 150 miles north of Oaxaca to meet up with me…

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1257

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1258

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1260

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1261

And it was a beautiful ride. Fast, too–he’s a good rider and knows these roads well.

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1262

This is the “N” town where we were suppose to meet.

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1264

He kept losing me on the flats with his powerful R1200RT.

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1265

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1267

But I was also busy taking pictures

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1268

And avoiding donkeys

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1270

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1272

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1273

I was starting to feel poopy and tired again, and lucky for me Rubén lives north of town, so we turned off before Oaxaca..

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1276

and we chatted until his wife, Aurora, came home from work.

And guess what we had for la comida? (Lunch, served around 2-3 pm)

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1277

!!!

Chicken Soup

!!!

I almost cried again.

I Brake for Iguana

Monday, December 28th, 2009

December 8, 2009
Ixtapan – Acatlán (Mexico)

Moving Time= 7:16
Stopped Time=2:38
200 miles

I wanted to try to get all the way to Oaxaca today…I had some friends-of-friends there, and they were expecting me to arrive today. It would be a big push, and unfortunately I got a late start because my stomach was really upset last night…I was up a lot of the night. Gas? Not sure. Felt like gas.

Rode for an hour, then in a small town I stopped for breakfast. I’d had a “liquado” a couple of days before,

SA_Trip_MEXICO 866

SA_Trip_MEXICO 867

and was craving another one–fresh fruit juices, granola, some protein shake, yum and easy to digest. When I saw the telltale blender roadside, I did a U-turn. No liquados, but they had jugos–just juice–and what would I like? Um, I don’t know–make it up. Then they talked me into a gordita. My stomach was acting hungry, the food smelled good, so I got one of those and sat down with another olde couple. Turns out they were ont heir way to Cautla, were intrigued by my trip, and we spoke for about half an hour. Nice people. I asked them what the heck I was drinking, and it was beet & carrot juice. It was good, but an unusual combination.

The gentleman was nice enough to write in my journal the town-by-town directions for me to get to Oaxaca, since I’d told him how I always get lost in the Cities.

Miacatlan a Alpuyeca
Alpuyeca a Cuernavaca
Cuernavaca a Cuautla

grrr. Cuautla. Not only can I not pronounce it, but I got profiundly lost there. For two + hours I tried to find the right road, get on the right highway (I refused to take the toll road–I’d been told I could get to Oaxaca for free on the libre, and I was determined to do so!) I did circles and circles. I started to sweat. I was thirsty. I could not find the right road. I was hot. The GPS said the road was right there, and yet it ended in a market. So I tried to go around, and ended up in a school. then a corn field. Grrr! I felt faint. Maybe I just needed some water. I aslo ITCHED. It sems I had a bunch of bites–not sure where I got them, since I don’t remember getting bitten.

I finally stopped to get some water, and bought a Sprite, a water, and some more Maria crackers. I felt weak, but didn’t feel like eating. I asked the shop lady if I could just stand there for a few minutes, drink my drink, gather my wits for few minutes. She asked about my trip, etc. and I told her I was feeling badly, had been off & on, etc. She said I should go to the pharmaist and get a pill. A pill will cure me? I’m all for THAT! In that moment I was ripe for a pharmacist, and there happened to be one across the street. The pharmacist said I had a stomach infection, and a parasite, adn gave me two boxes of pills.Great! Pills will cure me. I took them. Walked back across the street, thanked the shop lady again and told her I got pills, and got back on the bike.

OK, I was cured, and suddenly it was easy to figure out how to get out of town.

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1174

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1175

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1176

Then I got stuck in some construction

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1178

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1179

and knew I was not going to make it to Oaxaca.

Cuautla a Matamoros
Matamoros a Huajapan e Leon
Huajapan a Oaxaca

But I got to ride some more nice roads

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1185

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1186

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1187

And even broke FOR AN IGUANA at one point. How cool is that?

Got stuck behind some traffic

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1198

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1199

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1201

And finally came to Acatlán, where I needed to stop for the night. I was feeling badly again, and it was close to dark. Shoot.

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1203

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1204

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1205

Examiner.com Article: MotoAdventureGal update: Canyons, mummies, and butterflies

Sunday, December 27th, 2009

Ken’s posted his second article about my trip on Examiner.com

http://www.examiner.com/x-378-Motorcycle-Examiner~y2009m12d20-MotoAdventureGal-update-canyons-mummies-and-butterflies

Twitter Updates for 2009-12-27

Sunday, December 27th, 2009
  • A week without the SPOT and I've forgotten how to use it! Or is it malfunctioning? I'm back to riding but have to fix the SPOT! #
  • Just arrived in Antigua Guat. and got a lovely little room perfect for romance. My bike is happily tucked into the hotel lobby, Life's Good! #

Reserva Monarca (Monarch Butterfly Preserve)

Sunday, December 27th, 2009

December 7, 2009

Reserva Monarca

Well, my bike was NOT happy climbing the last 1000 feet up into Angangueo, so this morning I sucked it up, and did my first on-my-own chain adjustment. After double, triple, quintuple checking, I thought I had it right, and left this still-sleepy (and really freaking cold!) town at 9000 feet elevation.

Turns out my carbuereted bike likes altitudes UNDER 8000′ the best. It tends to protest anywhere above that–not vociferously, mind you, just like a whiny child in a I-don’t-really-like-this-but-I’ll-humor-you-anyway kind of way. So I ride this really great road up to the monarch butterfly preserve, and I’m pretty damn proud of myself. Firrst chan adjustement, totally empowered to take on the world, energized by the cold (and darned happy I have heated hand grips on my bike!). I pay my 15 pesos to “park”, and ride in. I’ve been told by Francisco in the tourist office in Angangueo that the last 800 meters of the driveway are a little rough, and I figure he knows what he is talking about since he owns three bikes (turns out they are scooters, not bikes).

Easy road, pass some huts on the left with no signs of life (houses? ghost town?), keep going. And going. Hm. longer than 800 meters? Then the road dips down, steep down, and I think to myself “this is not right–the butterflies like elevation”. So I get myself turned around, and tke my next right UP. Groovy.

Up. And Up. and UP. OK, Altimeter says 10,000′, 10,200′, 10,300′ etc. until I am over 11,000 feet, and remind you my bike dosn’t like to be very high up, so it’s protesting more and more, and just about the time the altimeter says 11,200 feet (really now, how high do these butterflies really like to live anyway?) and about the tiime that the road turns into a billy goat path about as wide as my bike, and about the time that the heavy dews make the mud in between the rocks totally slippery, and about the time I almost pass out from holding my breath, the bike will not move forward (too little power, too much gear, too high up, etc.) I realize I think I may have made a mistake.

My heart is beating frantically, my bike is stuck on a path about as wide as it is (which seems exceedingly narrow at this point), my rear wheel is stuck between two rocks, and I am beginning to think I may hhave made a wrong turn…

Oh well, I am in the middle of nowhere, in a beautiful lush forest, my motorcycle stuck and I have come to see the butterflies. So what’s a gal to do?

Put the kickstand down, get off the bike, lock the helmet onto the seat, and decide to deal with the motorcycle later.

I have come to see the butterflies, and I WILL see the butterflies. I must have been quite a vision in reflective motorcycle gear to the high altitude cows chewing their cud along the billygoat path. So I continue up the cow-and-billygoat path, and after a half hour of steadily climbing, in full-out motorcycle gear (hey, at least I am not COLD anymore!) I am rewarded with a couple of butterflies.

WHAT?

There MUST be more.

Then I get lucky, and realize the orange moss on the pine trees? BUTTERFLIES!

Butterflies EVERYWHERE!

I walk towards the butterflies. They are on everything. Cover practically everything. It’s the coolest thing I have ever seen.

And the Sound? The sound of rain in a lush rainforest? No. The sound of MILLIONS upon MILLIONS of beating butterfly wings.

May I present to you these delicate creatures that have flown across the Gulf of Mexico, to do their butterfly thing here in the high mountains of Morelia, Mexico.

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1108

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1109

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1110

I have to be very careful not to step on them as I move around

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1113

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1124

They are everywhere! feeding

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1130

Flying

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1134

I am in awe.

I take my time walking amongst them, listening, wondering, taking pictures.

Here is a video –LISTEN!

<>

And then it is time to face the music.

I try to remember the way I came through the forest…Up, down, around, um? where are teh marks I put imteh mud every time I made a turn?

help?

walk, walk, walk, then I hear something…

weird. lots of hoofbeats.

Oh! Hey! A person–I’ve read about these guides that take you up to the reserva on horseback. Why couldn’t I find one when I needed one?

I ask if he’s seen my Moto.

Moto?

Si, Moto.

Nope, but if I wait for him there, he will come and help me look for it.

Ok.

But I have to pee, so I march off trying to find a private spot…in a forest that suddenly does not seem so private…and I spy my moto!

oofa. I forgot that I was stuck.

The path

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1103

I cannot get traction

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1102

Where my wheels just skid on damp earth

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1104

My wheels get caked with mud

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1105

And I hear the sound of thundering hooves…

it is the horseback guide, running his horse, and leading another, like a wildman, and he has come to save me. He ties up the horses, and we decide on a plan of attack…He wil stabilize the back end of the bike, (yeup, downhill of a 400 lb. bike, in mud, with a girl he doesn’t know at the controls) and help me back down the billygoat path tile we get to a place where I can turn the bike around…

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1102

This accomplished, I realize I do not have much money–I give him everything I have–a few dollars’ worth of Pesos– and apologize profusely that i do not have more, yet I am very appreciateive, etc.

I do not even have enough money to go and pay for my entrance now, so I ride back down the access road

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1100

and sneak out of the reserva.

Turns out that the deserted village is now full of life, and that must have been where I should have stopped. I’m an early riser, and I guess I beat the workers there.

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1144

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1146

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1147

SA_Trip_MEXICO 1148